Travel: October feels like summer in Budapest + Szentendre. Hungary.
October feels like summer in Budapest + Szentendre.
Traditional October trip to Hungary.
When I went to Budapest for the first time in 2015 as my birthday gift to myself, I have been returnign ever since. My local friends introduced me to Budapest like I feel I AM the local (Well, not really, I just don't feel lost). I had rooftop beers with them, fountain picnic drinks, endless meals in all day breakfast cafes, one local friend worked as a tour guide so once joined in and heard all about the first hipster of Hungary. During my first trip I was flexitarian with food, I tried local meat dishes back then too. Then another time we had a secret walk in the basement of ethnography museum, and all the fun at ruin bars also already has happened that on my first night this year, I felt sick after one beer, oh, Lord I am an old lady. And the happy drunken walk to home already has been done too. Then my airbnb's host's opening night of exhibition - done. A beer with local travellers too (weekly couchsurfing meeting). And casual foreigner moments as if I just moved to there. That moment when you go to a local grocery store and can't figure out "what is this?". Once visited in December, and how dreadfully cold it was, lukily mulled wine was available on every corner and cheap, but had to drink fast as it's temperature went down quick. Despite the fact how often I have been there, I still have problems saying anything in Hungarian. The only few words I understand is the visual ones - directions / transportation stuff. Weirdly when I get surprised and want to be polite answering back in hungarian "thank you", I kind of get all nervous and reply in Swedish 😂.
Now here I am, back again in Budapest. You'll notice how many photos I have got of myself this time. The reason I'm all about selfies from this trip is because I can't see this city that beautiful as the first 4 times when had all the first impressions. The last two times just revisiting what is appreciated before. Now I want photo of me here and there than just another building, bridge or a stranger. ;)
When in Budapest it's all about pleasure - I love food and I am lazy, so, I take advantage of drinking my coffee like a rich queen at the cafes, and plan my cooking by going to restaurants! Yet, I got tired of not cooking my own meals... Like that last meal we had at HUMMUS BAR. Oh gosh, I am a dumbpants in culturar cuisine. I ordered basically a big plate of HUMMUS and hummus toppings, and nothing more! It was too much for me, haha. What an idiot.
Why Szentendre? Because I was recommended by two travel experienced people. Thanks, Liva and Samantha. Also because as I knew we will be longer than usual in Budapest, had to see something more. I did not want to have a hustle with travelling more, so, this was perfectly located near to Budapest with easy public transport access, and from the google photos, it looked like a super colourful small town. It is indeed colourful, full with museums and wine bars, and a nice river hang out.
But if fancy - read more or if not, just scroll my photos, I hope you can receive the vibe and atmosphere of this city how I feel it.
Why Szentendre? Because I was recommended by two travel experienced people. Thanks, Liva and Samantha. Also because as I knew we will be longer than usual in Budapest, had to see something more. I did not want to have a hustle with travelling more, so, this was perfectly located near to Budapest with easy public transport access, and from the google photos, it looked like a super colourful small town. It is indeed colourful, full with museums and wine bars, and a nice river hang out.
But if fancy - read more or if not, just scroll my photos, I hope you can receive the vibe and atmosphere of this city how I feel it.
Day 1. Malmö to Szentendre.
As it as 430am morning, it was NOT a pleasant morning. I had come home from the Election day in Malmö for Latvia (6th October, 2018) at something past 1am, and were exhausted and emotionally drained as it was an intensive day and the counting went longer than we expected. What a crazy rules in behind scenes if only voters knew! Anyway, I was in a grumpy tired mood. Arrived in the airport, and I knew I am alright with my bags and such, especially, when travelling with Norwegian pretty often I am used to carry a backpack and small totebag with my VIP stuff. BUT somehow here at Malmö airport for WizzAir my bags were not approved. My backpack was half empty, I just did not pack before approaching the checkin lady. The lady was horrible and I was horrible back. And then I got more frustrated seeing my companion has already passed security and is not even noticing I AM NOT BEHIND HIM! :D I called and gave a rant what a bad travell companion, just walked away, haha.
The morning begun with lots of unwanted shitty stress. The horrible lady did not explain I do not have to pay for the bag to hand in. My first reaction was fckmylife its gonna cost me fortune (as we know low fare airlanes....). Then he walked out from security back to the entrance. I put on my only three outfits I had in my bag, packed it 3x smaller and back we went in. The horrible lady did not see me, I got checked by the other lady next to her. Ohhh, I passed! Then the next was chaotic Malmö airport securitu check in... I mean, are we in some kind 1990's weird future illusion?! Those workers do not understand their job, but okay, okay, we all need a job, right? Let's give them a break.
Ugh, Malmö airport, do not like it, yet they have fantastic Espresso House space :D.
2h flight and there w were around 10am arrived to summer! We take the public transport ride to the city now. You'll be surprised how cheap it is and how many options are there to travel to the city in comparison with Malmö airport (no, public transport, only private companies which asks a pretty high price).
A quick change to the next transport, then another switch and another, and then we finally were at our destination! Szentendre. First we walked to the river and looked for a restaurant to eat. Our first meal was not the best, but I enjoyed my soup in a bread, and salad. I am a food monster. The first day was just calm...nothing much. No dinner, only red wine, they had no wine snacks to order. Sometimes Hungarians have the best possible places to have their food businesses going, but the quality not always reaches the presentation.
Hotel: Cola panzio.
Transport: We used the public transport ticket. Inbetween Budapest and Szentendre we had to switch, there we got a new ticket as we were out of Budapest zone.
Eating out: Don't remember names, as just whatever was open and had some kind of vegan meals.
Day 2. Szentendre.
No warm shower and no shampoo makes my hairstyle to look like dump rag as Nigel Farage would call it. Staying at a hotel called Coca Cola which seems was top notch in 1970s. Now it's vintage hotel. I mean, all the strange hotels and airbnbs I've been to in Balkan countries... This isn't the worst 😂. But the owner is an lovely old lady, who does things the "vintage" style - no computerized registration, but by hand. She speaks Hungarian, German, Russian and a bit English. Saying to her I'm from Latvia, she gave me a sweet warm look with a bit tears in her eyes. In Balkans, old generation always, always gives me that look... Baltic people are really loved here. ( thanks to The singing revolution.)
The hotel is not the best, but not the worst, I did not mind. It's...lets say AUTHENTIC. And the owner really is a sweet kind lady. I believe if she had a hipster grandchildren, they would have changed her place so much more attractive, but then it would not be so cheap.
All day we just walked around, had coffee and vegan craft ice cream. Just really a slow relaxing day. We did not go to museums, but there are so much for cultural tourist activities to do if someone needs that kind info about this town. It is worth to visit.
Hotel: Cola panzio.
Eating out: Some small cafes at the main street for breakfast and lunch coffee.
LA MOCCA // Bakery Prima Adria cafe - dinner. Simple to get vegan portions, easier to be vegetarian which I sometimes do, but after few vegetarian meals, I start to feel not alright due to my allergies.
LA MOCCA // Bakery Prima Adria cafe - dinner. Simple to get vegan portions, easier to be vegetarian which I sometimes do, but after few vegetarian meals, I start to feel not alright due to my allergies.
Ice cream the one and only Levendula.
If you're from Nordics, trust my outfit - it is this warm here. But if you're not from Nordics, don't trust me, because everyone else is wearing coats, socks, hats, jackets... And starring at me. |
THIS DOG BREED IS EVERYWHERE IN HUNGARY! |
Day 3. Bye, calm Szentendre. Hello, wild Budapest!
This morning early we left the small town Szentendre for my babe town Budapest. A city where I gain back my sanity after long months and years living in Malmö, Sweden. That's why it's so often visited and makes me a bad explorer, but then again... I've been so lucky of having local friends who introduced me to a Budapest like I've not seen any tourist guides online. I love this crazy wild city which is all opposite to Sweden. Hungarian logic is weird yet its fun.
Before leaving another a bit awkward coffee drinking from a tiny, tiny miniature cup served by host' lady. On the streets we were the only ones out, so, we caught the city at it's best - sunrise colours and silence.
Budapest. Soaked in thermal pools and tanned in October sun. Ended with vegan burger and bad beer.
The bath was freaking great as always. I especially enjoyed the freezing cold bath (oh, the Spanish ladies looking at me! "What? I'm from North."). The hotel was great too, I have no high needs, as long is its quiet and clean bedroom, it's fine with me. Location just perfect! Next time we plan to stay there again, but won't get public transport card as no need when stay there. Burgar was awesome, but not the beer. I should have said no, to that india pale whatsoever, I know I don't like those, yet I sometimes drink just because "maybe this will be fine?" , never happens, what a party pooper me . But what a joy I had wearing summer outfit, being in sandal-shoes barefoot and NOT BEING COLD or too hot! Perfect weather to my sensitive heat skin.
Budapest: Széchenyi Thermal Bath
Transport: Now we got the 72h ticket.
Hotel: Harmony home apartament.
Food: Las Vegans (food court) // Beer at the Szimpla Kert.
Coffee: London coffee Society.
Day 4. Hiking up to the peaks.
Life is good when I'm in my top 3 favorite city in Europe. (Budapest, Stockholm, Riga.) My trips to this city is all about pleasure, food, food and food and spa. Climbing and eating again. Food and coffee nonstop. That's my Budapest.
This day was full of activities, yet, not enough as we thought even thoguh it seems we walked long distances, the distance was not enough to our mine and his daily activities in Sweden. He cycles 10x more than me, but my cycling is to me a lot, so, we thought next time we need to plan a running or cycling here. So, don't be afraid, this is so totally walkable, don't need public transport. Only need to get by bus or tram to the chairlifting area, there are few ways, so, check out which suits your needs the best. I'd recommend find the bus which goes all the way up to Normafa busstop, then have a coffee there, walk around, enjoy nature and go to the chairlift and have one ride down. At the end, there is a bus too, so, no worries of how to get back to the center. Hungarians seems crazy in comparision to Swedish style, but their public transport is spot on better than skånetrafiken and I think every single corner is covered by bus, tram, train, trolleybus, whatsoever, metro.
Budapest: Central Market Hall - Chain bridge - Liberty Statue - Citadella - Buda Castle (from outside only) and the surrounding
Transport: Now we got the 72h ticket.
Hotel: Harmony home apartment.
Food: Breakfast London coffee Society(LOVE THIS CAFE).
Lunch: Shitty vegan burger at the Buda Castle.
Dinner: Vegan pizzeria at the Anker't romkocsma (some kind club, but they had outdoor yard with nice wine &beer options).
The reason you travel to Budapest and in October. The hills in the city and the colours of autumn. And if you're like me who had health problems with the heat in Nordic summer, then you'll love this refreshing warm autumn.
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This
happens too. So many American tourists and my skill "speaking out loud
my mind" sometimes isn't appropriate. Accidently I tell my observations
not realising they are actually behind me, but no worries I'm not mean
I'm just judge laughing their attitude on "this is weird in Europe, why
they don't understand my needs?". I'm not pure North European. And then
you sit next to funny American older couples, they offer to take a photo
and obviously there's a finger over half of the photo. Haha. But cheers
to tourists, without them, travelling wouldn't be so fun!
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Yeah, this is what happens when you give your camera to Americans. :) |
Buda hills.
This is a bit hidden gem in Budapest. You don't really meet foreigners here, it was 98% locals who are in their late 50s and starting to get back into exercising. Cycling back and forth by the road. Or lots of families, friends, singles and dogs hanging out at the park with the crazy beautiful view of the city. Also very old people, old couples, having their slow daily walk and then extreme sporty fitness youngsters running all sweaty. Oh, there's a chairlift and "children's train". Many walking and mountain biking paths. And it's reachable by public transport. We've been here 3 years ago by accident. Just thinking if it's possible to reach the hills. Got lost as the park wasn't developed yet, but found the chairlift and felt that was the best tiny adventure within a city.
Day 5 . The last day as tourist and meeting friends.
Today was just hanging around - another slow breakfast at the "London coffee society", where we a bit chatted with the staff, really cool people. Shortly visiting the Vajdahunyad Castle. And then checking out the local shops later again visiting one of our usual cafes - cafe Madal - the hipster artisian cafe. Oh, and, of course, I had to visit a second hand shop and even better if "vintage second hand shop".Unfortunetly, we run out of time as we had arranged a meeting with one friend for lunch, shes born and raised in Hungary, but 10+ years lives abroad and currently a super badass make up artist in London. I only visited one second hand shop where I tried on many, many dresses just for fun, I love old dresses, much nicer, sexier, intriguing and feminine than modern H&M style. Or I am just an old lady in young girl's body still. THis second hand shop is FASCINATING, but so expensive! I think I would definitly one day go back there to find my vintage wedding dress.
Shopps, fika, home, lunch and another artisian fika FEKETE and then already time for a ferry ride. This is how the the day ends. That simple, so less things we did, but time run so fast. For the lunch we finally tried that Vega city I have been looking at ever since visited Budapest, but I never noticed that it's not a dinner eatery, only during the day. There are a lot amazing things for vegans, but it's like a bistro, a fast food eatery yet healthier, but not high quality, some food was not warm enough, but they have great smoothies and other drinks, and salads and so, but the vegan burger was really dry. It's also a worth to try, simple, cheap and only vegan.
For the ferry ride, I usually catch the tram which pases the central city market hall, and get the ferry from one of the stops there. Usually jump out somewhere near Batthyany ter or a bit further to get a nice ride on the river. The price is included in your 72h public transport ticket. Ammazing! No need for expensive fancy boat ride when can have your own picnic on the public transport ferry.
For the last dinner we went to the hummus bar. It was not that bad as people tried to tell us, it was okay, but only confusing for a newbie like me who is not educated in such culinary world and hummus to me means just another dip i use for veggies, but at this eatery... Oh, mamamamia, so many hummurs dishes and I of course chose the worst :) My plate consisted only from hummus and more hummus on the side. While trying to finish it, I thought I am not going to ever eat hummus. Also I was a bit ashamed that for the first time I would leave leftovers... Bad choice of plate, but other people had really good choices, just me..not :)
The last day finished and I was exhausted from all the food. Trip well done!
Food: London cafe society // cafe Madal // Vega city // cafe Fekete // Hummus bar
Ferry ride at the sunset.
The one and only way how to end your Budapest trip, take a boat ride with public transport around the sunset. And jump out at Batthyany ter to appreciate the mighty parliament house or just the evening colors of the city by the river. I was breathing in the atmosphere of freedom you get at moments like this when the life and world, and all senses comes together because of the beautiful moment. I love this city. It's my bipolar friend the wild and crazy me who does stupid things because of "follow the heart" or "live in a moment". Gosh, the stories I've collected from that me, I try to tune her down.. 😂 .
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Budapest is grand, charming and somehow that friend who always is the "life of a party" friend. You always know it's gonna be fun even if don't go to nightclubs and parties. Great ending to the traditional Budavaccay from calm Malmö life.
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As for #simpleliving. I did not do a challenge, I'm just a peasant who have no problems with 2/3 outfits for 5 day trip. I think I'd have been fine with just one if only when leaving Sweden it wasn't freezing.
Last morning.
Oh yes, the bittersweet ending... Early wake up, no sleep half of the night and the night before, and before... I don't know, I had a bit hard time falling asleep in the rooftop bedroom with a tiny window, anyway, but here I am with my fluffy morning face waiting for the airport bus. Don't wanna go, but want my own cooking, haha.
The first thing I did when arrived in Malmö - SAUNA HOUSE AND SEVERAL DIPS IN THE COLD SEA. SO good, so needed!
I don't know if I have given any information about traveling to Budapest, I am not good at it as when I travel to somewhere I just merge with the city, become local and just walk around. Occasionally I check on google "what to do and see", also if I have local friends then they tell a lot good information. One thing about Budapest - starve yourself before heading there, you will love the food whatever is your diet, but you'r belly will have a feast!
The only recommendation for Budapest is, get that public transport ticket 24h or 72h to see more of Budapest!
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