Solo Cycling Around Gotland : Day 2 "Fårö daytrip, wildflowers & cows" Bästeträsk - Fårö

August 10, 2025

Solo Cycling Around Gotland : Day 2 "Fårö daytrip, wildflowers & cows" Bästeträsk - Fårö - Hideviken

Finally it happened - decided to fullfill my idea I had in spring, but was not sure. I didn’t cycle Gotland to prove anything. I just needed to feel the wind on my skin again - to slow down, to listen, and to let the road carry me somewhere I hadn’t yet imagined. For five days, I pedaled through quiet pine forests, along empty coastal roads, and past sleepy harbors where time moved gently. I wore cotton bike shorts, a linen shirt, and my trusty Vans — no lycra, no high-tech gear, just a stubborn heart and a wish to move with the rhythm of the island. This series is not a guide in the traditional sense. It’s more of a soft-spoken travel journal — part outer journey, part inner unfolding.

5 days Solo Tour biking - 500km
Gotlandsleden 90%, 10% my own route (maybe less)
Direction: From Visby taking North route and cycling down to South route.
2 nights ferry
3 nights camping
1 night Vandrahem Hemse

Day 1: 96km
Day 2: 107km
Day 3: 87km
Day 4: 94km
Day 5: 93km + 20km

Level: Easy. Pros probably would like to go gravel, but Gotlandsleden is scenic and well planned, not so much gravel.

Here we go, day 2!

I woke up early as from the first day I felt that maybe sunrise rides would be the best for this trip - I just love the silence before the world stirs. At the Blue Lagoon, I took time. There was no sunrise as magical as day before, I started to pack and create my new morning routine for the trip - skinny dipping, reorganizing bags, drinking c vitamin and not really spending time for breakfast somehow I was not feeling hungry so this morning I was on energy bars. I woke up before 4am, and started pedaling around 5am. It was supposed to be around 30min bike ride, but once I hit the road, after the first 5km I felt that... ummm my legs are a bit tired, so, no expecations to be fast.

I had planned to catch the 6:00 ferry to Fårö, but Gotlandsleden took me on a little scenic detour... and I missed it. Honestly, I didn’t mind as the route was full of wildflowers and soft morning light... My camera had a great time.

I loved the short route to Fårösund, both these days there were parts of Gotland and the way how people have rebuilt-renovated their houses, I felt I like its so italian vibe or maybe even a bit South Eastern Europe vibes... The countryside houses are not familiar with mainland countryside style. I didnt see that many red wooden houses, but mostly here I saw light greysand colour rock buildings, which suited so well with the surrounding.

FÅRÖSUND - FÅRÖ

I had no set plan. I told myself I wouldn't do the full Fårö loop (58 km), but surprise! I cycled 95% of it. That’s just... me. I kind of knew I would do it, yet I still debated not to as my intention for this trip was not to go over 80km or even 100km... But here we go, a day 2 story and I did 107km. So much for taking it easy.

Anyway, once I arrived in Fårösund, I looked up again, saw that I am 10min from ferry and thought "yeah, ok, lets follow the route" without looking at it on the map that it was a bit loop. I cycled, took photos of wildflowers and then it hit me "hmm, it feels I am going longer than I expected...". Looked up Gotlandsleden on swedenbybike and saw that I was a bit outskirts of town haha. I was thinking of maybe cutting it short, but then told myself that no point, I dont have anywhere to rush as I am still early in town (before 6am), but I missed the ferry just by I dont know 20seconds...and next one was 30min wait.

After ferry arrived on Fårö land, I decided to skipp Ryssnäs nature park loop as my intention on the morning was still - to not cycle whole Fårö runt. Instead I took the long road towards more inland and stopped at a local beach café once I saw one. I think it was best decision as I needed a bit breakfast (frukostpaket 99kr). Also the vibe reminded me of when I lived in Newquay, Cornwall. Quiet, simple, perfect surfing vibes, chill relaxed, not that there were parties, nothing like that, but the early morning vibes.

After breakfast I started cycling the small runt Fårö trail and I kept hearing myself that I am saying "oh, this is so easy I probably can do the rest of Fårö Gotlandsleden..." and so that is how it went. I was stubborn and followed it, even thought there was one section I regreted I went - rough gravel road, but once it reached the road towards Langhammar, I breathed.

One thing I loved about the day were the many stops: resting at the morning café, then discovering a wild beach where I swam and washed my hair with nature friendly shampoo, pausing again in Digerhuvud, and later at the ferry café. I tried to find Norsta Auren beach but couldn't get there with the bike, so I saved it for next time. Still, I found a beautiful white sand beach instead, calm and family-friendly also looked perfect for wild camping.

The rain that was forecast never came when it was supposed to be around 11am so I continued... I got sunshine until just before the ferry and then, downpour! I sat in a café, soaked but smiling, talking with two cyclists who had been riding from the north for weeks. We exchanged tips, I told them about my spot, and they told me about theirs. The campsite they recommended was near my original plan, so, I strarted calculating km on google map with theirs and my planned plan a, b, c campsites. I realized that if I chose St. Olaf, I’d have a longer route the next day, and since I wanted a shorter Day 3, I decided to push a bit further and hit 100+ km that day instead and went with theri recommendation and it was pure perfection. That entire stretch of coast was beautiful and calm.

I really wish I had planned to camp on Fårö as I originally planned. A friend had warned me it's forbidden to wild camp there, and although I couldn’t find anything clear online, experience tells me not everything is clearly written down online. Still I saw so many hidden spots. Next year, I’ll stay for two nights.

Back to Gotland

Oh, and I had a classic countryside moment. To reach the coast, I had to cross a cow field in a forest. A whole herd was blocking the path. They stared. I stared. I considered turning back... but decided to face my English countryside trauma. Just as I started walking in, they decided to move too by running into forest and loudly mooooooing. Success. Swedish cows are chill and fun, and cute. I couldn’t help laughing. All these small things: the wildflowers in so many unexpected colour shades and species (so different from where I live) made me feel deeply alive.

Food. I wasn’t very hungry most of the day, but just before the ferry back to Gotland, I treated myself to a warm panini at a café. My real feast came later at the campsite: a simple, satisfying dinner of pasta and tuna. At one point during the ride, after doing nearly the whole Fårö runt leden and going far beyond my planned distance, I even bought an energy drink the first one I’ve had in over ten years. But I needed that kick to get through the last 35–40 km to camp.

Emotionally, this day really felt like an adventure with myself. There were some odd comments from the bikepackers about me “just” cycling Gotland with panniers, but I reminded myself: this is my way, and I like it. I’m not interested in rushing through Sweden from top to bottom. This short solo holiday is exactly what I need. I felt proud of myself for doing this trip alone. Fårö, especially, made me think: what if I came back here for two nights? Capture the sunset, wake up on the white sand, maybe join a beach party at the café. I even started dreaming up a retreat one that’s not about sitting still and drinking cacao, but about actually doing something. Cycling, camping, getting out of your comfort zone. That, to me, is the real spiritual experience.

I left Gotlandsleden only for the last few kilometers, to reach a place called Nedersta Leden (or something close to that). On my way to my campsite near Slite, I saw many possible good camspites so I thought if I dont like the one I am aiming for, I can come back. When I arrived by the gates, there was a man with his house on the wheels, and he asked me if I need a help to get in. I said that I am not even sure if I can go camping there as it seems a nature park, but he encouraged that it is okay and he has been here many times, then he opened the gates and wished good luck. I cycled up and then on the left side of the island saw the perfect spot...

The campsite was magical quiet, tucked away, and free. I was so thankful for the recommendation. Since I was early again I had allll evening to take photos, videos and organize my bags, and just enjoy the nature. I was so happy about this place that my energy level from excitement went up, I think. I was just enjoying it so much and really thought this would be so cool to have a girls trip, take photos and ahh so beautiful!

You can find more behind-the-scenes moments from this trip on my Instagram [@elinanomad] — come say hi! I will share on my IG/TIKTOK when I make a full video of this trip too.