Explore Sweden: Hitchhiking guide to North Sweden. Part 1 "all the roads go to the Jokkmokk market!"




The main characters: Erik Stenberg an adventurist in daily settle-down life, Sabina Lindgren an adventure is her lifestyle, Elina Nomad an adventurist in heart and soul, and mind.
Place: From Malmö, Stockholm and Riga to the North, to mighty Jokkmokk.
How? By hitchhiking and free-ride car.
Experience levels.
Hitchhiking: All had some, but only Elina had done few alone long hitches.
Making new friends while travelling: Everyone.
Low-budget tripping: Everyone.
Winter camping: NONE
Preparation: None or basic for "it's winter, need winter jacket and boots".
Hungry for an adventure: Very much, too much.
When: February 2014.



Everyone with a tiny bit of free spirit nature has planned “a trip to north” adventure once in life, it is one of those bucket list to-dos everyone wants to do at some point because the idea of seeing Aurora Borealis makes you feel like a kid knowing your mama is baking your favourite cookies! “A trip to north” often is very well planned and organized, and well spent, as “north” already gives you shivers of a thought of  "cold temperatures" which also means these trips are not so friendly to the budget travellers, so, therefore “a trip to the north” is something special! Especially IN WINTER.

In my case, it was totally unplanned, unprepared, and unorganized. I was still a nomad in Sweden without my own address and steady income. And I had never been a fan of winter adventures, so, I did not own winter surviving gear, but instead, I had broken boots from Riga’s central market and a “winter” coat from a fast-fashion shop. All I knew I was adventure-hungry, and I didn’t really think or I think I did not even really realize what I had signed up to go for!

Here in these lines, I share with my “A trip to northern Sweden in winter” story, it is full of thoughts and things what happened, and how we get to the Jokkmokk. This adventure took place in 2014 February. A lot of moments are carried away in a blur, but I tried to add in details as much as I could, leaving out some offline (just for us) parts, but in overall it is a story from my perspective and emotional journey, as will be noticed that when we "arrive in Jokkmokk", the paragraph becomes soft, calm, relaxed. That's how in reality it felt as well. If you plan to read, I warn you, it's a lot to read, so, get ready your tea or cup of coffee... But in my text, I don't have any promising suggestions on how to survive winter, as, after the trip, three of us laughed that this was the dumbest yet the funniest thing we did. I don't recommend to do this like we did, but I do recommend to not fear from making your own adventures. :)

Hitchhiking from Hölö/Stockholm-Umeå-Luleå.

My first status from a hitchhiked car: Oh my gosh the view I see.. my heart is going dududosiaalala and my inner child is screaming from excitement and I feel like I want to jump in my chair, but I can't I'm sitting in a car with the best hitchhiking driver I've had. Crazy stories of his hitchhiking days back in the 70s!!! Umeå – soon, I mean tonight! :) As can read, I had a fantastic driver!


A friend of mine Andrea (Mother lake singer) told me about her time in Jokkmokk market selling there handmade cosmetic and other herbal things. All I heard: it is a wonderful event, and up in the north. But I had no idea that it is so culturally important and traditionally rich! That part I had not understood or heard as my imagination of me being up in the north was running wildly already. So, in some ways I signed up for this adventure a bit like blind-sighted or ignorant, I just knew – I want to go, and it feels to be a good end to the whole hitchhiking in Sweden experience (in February it was a year since I had become a nomad).

I hitchhiked to Umeå from outskirts of Stockholm. It took me 12h in total, and my friends waiting in Umeå were impressed as they began their hitchhike a day before me and it did not go to smooth as mine. They had their own experience and funny story!

Erik and Sabina hitchhike a day before me.

Well, this is not going to be so detailed, but all I remember they started out in Märsta. It is a well-recommended spot, but I tried once I felt you gotta be lucky to get out from here. Then they were stuck in Uppsala for several hours (I think Erik said 7h in total). So, when I heard that their trip is not going so smoothly, I was a bit surprised because for me Uppsala always has been the spot on yeah baby spot - in normal language - always getting my rides within several minutes. Next, they finally arrived in another really well known amongst hitchhikers gas station by Gävle, and ar Erik says:"And the first thing I did there was to go to the bathroom and when I got out Sabina had got us a ride all the way to Umeå." Yey! Sabina's talent is to speak to people, my talent is to keep my thumbs up, but Erik kept the whole energy up. When they told me their hitchhiking story, they did say that during those 7h they were thinking that is is a bad idea and maybe should not do it. But not giving up, they learn one good hitchhiker's lesson: the best rides come at the right time. I learnt this too.

What I was doing that day? Well, I also planned to hitchhike on the same day, but I woke up that morning, my little cat at the farm was looking at me and saying "not yet mama", so I felt I was not ready to leave my nomad-family. And it seemed right, as the next day my hitchhiking went totally opposite to Erik&Sabina.

I mentioned my adventure was totally unplanned. Here it starts with Erik and Sabina who understood my plan completely differently, and I understood THEIR plan differently too. When I was hitchhiking to Umeå, they had “forgotten” to mention their friend at whose place they crushed that I will come too, it was a bit of last minute, so, when I knew it they had not told him yet, I felt a bit awkward – after all Swedish and their Nordic mentality and unplanned visitor, ah oh!...
 But when I arrived with my full on energy which I always get the first 30 minutes after a long hitchhiking day full of amazing experience and exchanged energies, and stories and WHOABAM! THIS HAPPENED:

-So, do you have a tent for us to camp?
-No. I was not really thinking I am camping, I thought as I am on my own, it will be easier to find a place to stay, so, I am just trusting the universe!

-Oh! We thought, she said, I thought, no, wait, we need a new plan! (the confusion moment)

And there began our kind of “disaster” adventure. Those who were not joining us, but participated in our planning, were laughing at us already that we are a great travel team! Haha! I did some Couchsurfing magic and sorted out our next 2 nights until we reach Jokkmokk. And Erik sorted for us camping stuff, and Sabina had sorted food. But it all was so hectic, that I just knew I can’t take all this seriously, we are just three funny “idiots” on an adventure together and let’s just follow the flow! In the end, we ended up calling ourselves 3 turtles (but with the size of backpacks, we were more like a team of 6). And the amount of cloth on... Sabina got the most, at least 7 layers! Mama Bear!

First night planning, the next day free-rider car from Hertz: Umeå-Luleå, so, we were the king and queens of our own time (even though we managed to be late and almost were stranded in cold, as our cs host had a specific hour to meet us). “Plans changed every five minutes”, says my notes. I guess because we did not realise that easier and faster was if Erik went on his own to pick up the car and come pick up us with 3 backpacks, but instead we all three went out through Umeå and got lost finding the Hertz office. It took us extra 2h. But when we realized what we could have done if used logic, we burst into laughter with tears.

Shortly in Luleå, we had nice dinner with our Couchsurfing host, a good sleep, big breakfast and too much laughing of ourselves, and a bit of “we have no idea what we are doing”. The trip had been so far only 24h long, but we had already collected a long list of stories and notes to tell when we get back from ‘this adventure’…

Hitchhiking from Luleå to Sanningslandet.

This was the longest hitchhike for such short distance. But it was a day full of laughter. From Luleå we got a good enough spot to continue further north. Sabina ‘hitchhed’ a ride at a petrol station. We were trying to find a balance that all three of us feels good about the situation, as we felt we are a bit stuck. I thought of going alone, as 3+3backpacks seemed a bit crazy plan. So the first part of the trip, we were disconnected, nothing just worked out. And it's another hitchhiking lesson: energies between travellers. We discussed the situation and said that this is a trip for three of us, and we do it together!
After that, suddenly every car stopped for us to check if and what help we need! We got a ride with a lady.
After the warm ride, for a while we were on our own somewhere in the middle of nowhere on the road E4 (after Luleå almost no cars…It was so different to being on E4 South road), we were eating chocolate, cheering up each other, discussing the tips on how to hitchhike in winter (stand on a cardboard, please), and we put fairy lights around us, tried to stay visible and so, until finally after an hour and so we got a ride until Töre and then Överkalix. In Töre we were resting, drinking coffee, discussing and suddenly again, hops, Sabina had this crazy energy to approach every driver at the Töre petrol station and got for us amazing driver!

Our driver seemed to be "The Someone" from this area who knew everyone, but it felt more like everyone knew each other in general. On the way to Överkalix, he called to petrol station there and asked the service people if they know anyone from Sanningslandet coming in, make them stop as 3 hitchhikers are coming who need to get to Sanningslaned this evening! They really knew each other there, as nearly whole villagers were involved helping us to find a ride. They recommended to go to catch someone at the culture house as there was just some local meeting (I am sorry to have plain memory on details here), but it didn't work out, only one elderly couple offered a ride if it is one person. It didn't work for us, so, we went back to the petrol station. I and Sabina were standing there, and suddenly she somehow disappeared. Then Erik came back from his mission and said we are taking the bus. We walked, and I thought Sabina is waiting for us there. When I asked where is she. Erik thought I knew that she "run away" with the pensioner couple who only offered a ride for one! HAha. I laughed so much, I thought it's so Sabina to think of her own story, but nevermind, we all are going to the same place anyway.

All photos include the stories of getting to point A to B to C and D:On the way to Umeå, leaving Luleå, on the way to Jokkmokk and such.

The only longest and a bit coldest wait in the middle of nowhere by E4N. For warm foot, we used cardboard to stand on.
I loved these snow trees!

After the long wait, here we there, we had a driver, we had a plan and all was alright! Except, Sabina disappeared.... she went on her own to Sanningslandet, and we had to take a bus!


Sanningslandet and reindeers.

My lack of Swedish back then, I had no idea that Sanningslandet translates to THE TRUTH LAND! Wow, what a beautiful destination. I was finally for the first time in Arctic Circle. Lolo our Couchsurfing host (later turned out a far relative to one of all 3 common friend) fed us with so many amazing goodies, and took care of us, a true northerners kindness! And - there are no words to describe Lolo’s cooking…. Best breakfast of my life - the pancake heaven! Lolo has a blog: post about me, Erik and Sabina. 

My facebook status: Oh...hi mum I'm good. I'm... far up... I'm in arctic circle!

We went out for a late-night walk with dogs after dinner, it was so dark and quiet over there in Arctic circle that at some point we walked blindly just trusting our instinct that there is a road! Lolo had organized for the next morning a reindeer feeding which was next to her house in the forest. Again, I was a bit excluded due to language, so, I can’t make a note here on Sami stories on their reindeers, but that gave me a time to stand still and watch the bunch of reindeers and notice that they look a bit goofy! I fell in love with reindeers, just starring on them I thought they seem such “trolololo my laaaaif soo good, I'm so happy reindeer” a voice in Eddie Murphy's way. Just animals who don’t give a sh#t! :) Very relaxed vibe, but not when they run out on a car road!

Things I have not mentioned yet, the weather. We were never really cold, like in a need of a shelter, we managed the cold, as it was not the coldest winter there. During on the E4 road, we used cardboard under feet, we had warm drinks, but being all day outdoors, I could notice that a little bit I mentally needed the warmth. I dreamt of having a sauna! But in general the whole experience was full on that did not have much time to even think of my needs and wishes, we only were working on our energies to reach the destinations and have the best energy for communication with locals. Also, what was interesting, this was my first time really seeing the polar day, that you have the daylight for so short time, that maybe you even did not notice IT was the daylight! Due to the fact it was unusually warmer than other years, it was just basically a big grey cloud in the sky most of the days.

This is the daylight.
We loved and laughed at this photo of us, we thought we just already together look like three weirdos on an adventure.
Erik pointing out to his home county Skåne / Malmö
Going to the heart of Lapland.


After reindeers, we took off on the road E10 to Jokkmokk. The Sámi name of the place means “River’s Curve”, due to the meandering river that runs through it.

In this area where we were now (Överkalix-Gällevare), you kind of have to really hope for the FIRST CAR you see to STOP and take you! Because maybe the next one goes only for an hour or later… Who knows, but not so often as when hitchhiking from Stockholm down to Malmö(south part). We got a driver who had been driving from Bulgaria on his way to Kiruna. He wanted to drive to Jokkmokk (2h extra detour for him), but we kindly rejected as we thought we will a little bit stop in Gällevare and then… There we found a café, and we clearly drew an attention to us (well, who HITCHHIKES IN NORDIC WINTER? Are you some crazy people?).

We hitchhiked a car straight to Jokkmokk with a few minutes wait!
The driver invited us to warm up at his home a bit, and Sabina could sort out her calls about the lost wallet. Meanwhile, I and Erik went for investigation for a possible campsite. I don’t remember how we came to that idea, but we ended up camping in a very central spot, on a small hill next to petrol station. Which was good – toilet, warm space if needed just next to us, so, a little bit spoiled campers. I felt high on joy, all adventure seemed just “can’t be real, too good to be true”, and the idea of camping just started to sound amazing, and we joked that we won’t tell anyone that it was ONLY -13C, we wanted that everyone thinks it is the usual degrees such as -28C or so, but yes of course… Try to make a white lie in digital era! Haha.

"Campsite was made! All sorted, now pick up Sabina from warm, cosy home!" was our mission. The driver we had, told that our camping spot is his favourite memory from childhood. It was a hilarious walk, as we all kept felling of feet every few meters (snow, slippery, not so good shoes), and also carrying our backpacks… There are some photos in the darkness where might notice someone down on the ground. I remember when we showed our campsite to Sabina, she laughed, she laughed so much trying to explain to us why. Finally reached the destination she sees that our plan actually is becoming a reality, was a madness. She kept talking crazy fun comments, that I could no longer listen but run to a toilet! Thanks, God, we are next to petrol station!

For a while, we were “cosying up” our new home, when suddenly we heard SOMEONE IS COMING TO OUR TENT! It was just a late evening visitors of GEOcatching team, our spot is called The SQUIRRELS HIDING PLACE. We could not imagine a way better story to our campsite. I stayed in touch with Becky a Canadian girl visiting Sweden to explore her Swedish roots, that later I helped her to find an accommodation in Stockholm in “Couchsurfing sunshine collective”. Great meeting as we see!



My attempt at drawing a reindeer of "never really seen any yet" became as one of  Erik's favourite parts of our Jokkmokk trip story.
After few warm shots of an alcoholic beverage to feel snow as a second skin, the funny party Erik was appearing.


We found Jalle! A storyteller by the campfire. It's a typical thing or almost as traditional culture aspect a tourist goes to see.
One of the funniest /roligaste/ mornings in my life ever ever and forever.
Next morning I happily were enjoying the winter fun but seeing that small and the only "hill" in centre of town, I was surprised we stumbled upon it during a night with all our bags. Well, hungry for adventure, you gonna do anything!

The market. And the only salesman I got to talk to. Now in 2017, I don't remember much of our conversations, but he was a jolly man who has done this market for years and years.

The third morning. We woke up in this little Sami house at the open-air museum!


This is Sabinas "staged" photo after seeing my "crazy and yet honest" reflection of our morning campsite. While I went to enjoy winter fun, she made this photo. Sabina's photo.

And meanwhile, Sami are still fighting with the people who don't live their life and want to just fill up their wallets. Sabina's photo.
And with this photo I told to Sabina, that I rarely stage my photos, I snap the moments as they are.

I and Sabina woke up during the night in this hut house. Sabina's timer staged photo, but she did write letters.
Jokkmokk's main street next to the church... WINTER WONDERLAND.
The famous reindeer race
The end of part 1 adventure in the north.

 Facebook status: Omg I can't believe people I met, things we have done, situations, MOMENTS, MEMORIES NEW FRIENDS AND AHHH AND TONIGHT I'M SLEEPING AT MUSEUM SAMI HOUSE!!!! I'm so happy over happiness edge about coming to Jokkmokk.... tomorrow I'm skiing in mountains till we find a camping spot. Tack sa mycket all spirits and energy!!!!
Every Friday and Saturday night on my Facebook newsfeeds or later I see those clubbing party nights. Then I look at myself and laugh. Now what we're doing at 4am? Two girls making a fire to warm up the small Sami house at the museum... but not just ordinary look. While I'm tucked up in my sleeping bag eating cookies and laughing about snoring men... meanwhile other girl eating an apple and drying her everything above stove... literally "ass on fire". We're in some kind medieval time building, enjoying Saturday night fully.
Jokkmokk three nights sleeping outdoors went well. If you are actually reading my whole text, and have gotten this far to this line, I honestly must tell you that, if I share my full notes and moments of Jokkmokk, this might be another long story to tell. We had three full days with new, fresh and inspiring moments, observations, and experiences, and for me, some part felt so overwhelming that all I remember are short glimpses of moments...Me getting coffee at Statoil, walking through the long street of the market, and thinking how some stuff is so random like I am in a market back in the 90s in Kekava, Latvia which my grandad used to organize! And then there were few stands with things you came to see - Sami culture! I learnt from my long North stay a lot of new information on Sami culture I had never known or studied in history classes. Seeing all this in front of my eyes, were the best educational lesson and cultural awareness. I spoke with few locals, I drunk warm coffee around the campfire at the open air museum, I talked to their campfire man Jalle, some swedish visitors thought I was Sami, I remember seeing the parade of white reindeer, and colorful costumes, and the reindeer race, and I overwheard so many conversations about the Samy dancing night, some random indoor places to sit and warm up, texting to Erik finding out where are they, visiting the Sami student exhibition in their school, meeting Bahai community and being welcomed to their home and crowd (this was so heart warming experience, I smile remembering these people), meeting new people who turn out knows my nomad-family community, and meeting in face the instagram star I have been following, and the funny sleeping in tent nights with stories about monsters outside, and sipping a warm alcohol, and then suddenly ending up sleeping the last night at the Sami house in open air museum. And getting my hat while on my head on a fire, like that moment in a movie "Home Alone". I mean, what just did not happen in North?!

The market I recommend anyone who has interest in cultural travelling than "look at me and something famous behind me", to GO TO JOKKMOKK. TO GO TO THE NORTH. What I felt about the north, that even though we were in Sweden, it didn't feel the Sweden I knew. North Swedes are really friendly when YOU approach them, they are very helpful and won't let a stranger freeze outside, welcoming, and in some ways, I felt like I am in some "old-school" society on how we all used to be. The north made me smile a lot!

Jokkmokk was fantastic! I later returned in summer, and just loved, loved, loved the atmosphere, that friends who have travelled with me to Jokkmokk, have some funny stories to tell around gathering table when they hear words "Elina and Jokkmokk", but perhaps that I will keep for the offline world! :)

As Erik said seeing this my long post:"So long, but... It was a very eventful experience" a lot to write, to remember, to share, and so, therefore, this story is going into 2 or 3 parts.... because THIS WAS NOT THE END.

First, the trip was about three of us getting to JOKKMOKK. Then Sabina left us after the market to go home to Umeå, so, she picked up a funny hitchhike story of her own during this time. The second story is that I and Erik joined my long time met Swedish vagabond and nature lover Mikeal to continue the adventure and camping more in the snow... All the roads go to Akkajaura-Ritsem (ok, not really, there is only one road). So that's where we spent my life's scariest night when I prayed God to let us survive this night. Long story short, we survived and continued going back to Mikeal's little house by the lake in the forest. This was also fantastic and I absolutely enjoyed (except Erik's snoring).

Mikeal is a true adventurist and crazy risk taker when it comes to "adventure in nature". He has done bicycle adventure in the Swedish mountains during snow period, and some other bicycle trips around the world, that is how we met. I hitchhiked to Paris where I met a bunch of couchsurfers and him and we went on a camping trip, but about this, I guess I will tell some another time.

At Mikeal's home, we continued more some winter fun outdoors, but about that, I will write later. When we were back in Umeå, we kept hanging out few more days until in the end I stayed on my own with the new Umeå friends and I travelled to nearby countryside couchsurfer to see what's out here more. In the end, it was very long and adventure fulfilling trip! The next parts I hope will follow one by one shortly, not leave it for another 4 years.

To go to the north in winter or not? Well, what are you waiting for? JUST GO! :) We said we were lucky with our last minute plans, but we also kept staying positive and worked on our energies, mindset to just enjoy the adventure than worry about the wrongs.

If you go... please, take me with you!

The end of part 1.

What to expect in next parts? Photo of...


And
THIS

And her eis organized bus drive up to Jokkmokk in 2018.


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And at the same year of this trip, in November to be more exact, I made this poster of our travel for Erik on his birthday. 

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